For many people housetraining is a dreaded process – a necessary evil of dog ownership. There are the accidents,
the cleanup, the scolding, the loss of that “lovin’ feeling” between you and your puppy. Adult dogs can be trained
using these exact methods, but since this is usually a puppy issue, I will make reference to puppies throughout the
guide. All too often, people give up and the puppy becomes an outside dog because the owners believe it is
untrainable. The truth is that nearly all normal, healthy puppies and dogs can be successfully housetrained using the
correct methods.
What if I could give you a way to housetrain your puppy quickly and reliably without:
• Frustration or anger
• Your dog becoming afraid of you
• Nasty newspapers
• Rubbing noses in anything
• Lots of “accidents”
• Trial and error (mostly error)
Would you want to give it a try?
I have housetrained dozens of dogs and puppies using the methods I am about to share with you. They are, by far,
the most humane methods available. Personally, I would never attempt to housetrain a dog in another manner. This
method is so successful and so simple. While the method I will share with you is easy, it requires diligence on your
part to be successful, especially in the beginning. I have trained 8 week old puppies with this method in a matter of
days - and you can too. Are you still with me? Good! Then let’s get on with the method!
In most phases of my dog training, I employ natural processes that allow the dog to assume responsibility for its
behavior. Dogs – even very young puppies – are driven to keep the area where they sleep clean and dry. This
instinct, in addition to the denning instinct of dogs, makes using the crate as a housetraining tool absolutely ideal.
If you think the crate is “mean”, let’s consider the alternatives. Is smacking the puppy for having an accident mean? I
think so. Is paper training your puppy, then being angry because it pees on the magazines, rugs or clothing left on the
floor mean? I think so. How about “rubbing their nose in it”? Is that mean? Not only is it mean, it serves no purpose
other than to make the puppy afraid of you – especially to be afraid of you when it has to relieve itself. This is one
reason dogs will hide to do their business – they believe you are scolding them for going so they hide from you so that
you cannot see them go. You’ll be finding surprises behind the sofa for years! So, before you get emotional about
putting your puppy into a crate, let me assure you that a crate is only mean if you use it improperly. The crate is not a
punishment tool, nor is it meant to confine your pet for long periods of time. Used fairly, most dogs acclimate to crates
and find them a haven – a comfortable place that is all their own.
Step #1 Crate train your puppy
First, choose a crate that is an appropriate size for your puppy. Do not be tempted to buy a larger crate that will fit
your full-grown puppy. Buy a crate that is just large enough for your puppy to stand comfortably and turn around.
Anything larger and you are setting yourself up for failure. Yes – you may have to buy a larger crate that will fit the
puppy’s full-sized growth. This is part of owning a puppy and the small, puppy-sized crates are not that expensive so
just do it. (There are some crates on the market that have an internal wire mesh barrier that makes the crate smaller
during housetraining which can be removed when the dog is an adult – look into this if you want only to buy one crate.)
Trying to cheat this step is something many people attempt – you will only make training more difficult for yourself by
allowing bad habits to develop if you do not follow the program as outlined.
The next snag most people hit is when the puppy protests that it has been put in the crate. Most puppies will object
once inside their crates – expect it. Puppies miss the comfort of their littermates and adult dogs have been allowed
unlimited freedom – both will balk at the removal of all freedom. The puppy must now learn that it is not in control of
the household and it does not get freedom within the house until it earns that freedom. It is important that you help the
puppy develop a positive relationship with the crate. Do not just throw them inside and walk away. I toss treats just
inside the crate door encouraging the puppy to explore this new object. Be patient! Let me repeat – be patient!!
There is not a race to see how quickly you can shut that door. Give the pup a chance to look it over for himself. As
you are making progress, toss treats further inside the crate. Later, you can shut the door briefly then immediately
open it again. Then you can shut the door, leave the room and immediately return and let the pup out. However, do
not EVER open the door while your puppy is barking, whining or otherwise carrying on. The pup must realize that
being quiet and calm is the way to get what it wants. Overall, this process takes anywhere from several minutes to
many hours depending on the dog. Don’t shortcut this step either.
The items you should include inside your puppy’s crate include a soft towel, a water dish (preferably one that attaches
to the door of the crate to prevent spills) and a safe toy (such as a Nylabone or Kong). You will also be feeding the
puppy in the crate, so make sure you have a food dish that will fit into the crate as well.
What about crate bathroom accidents? Before you get frustrated or angry, consider that the puppy may have a stress-
related or medical reason for the accident. Puppies that pee small amounts frequently may have a urinary tract
infection and will need a trip to the vet for antibiotics. Additionally, some congenital problems show themselves as the
pup begins to mature which could include other medical reasons for frequent urination. Poop accidents are often a
result of stress, changes in diet and overfeeding. Sometimes new treats can cause a tummy upset which results in
diarrhea. These things are not within your puppy’s control – no scolding the puppy! Once all of those items have
been ruled out, if a puppy is going in the crate then the crate is likely too large. Another possibility is that the puppy is
willing to use the bedding as a bathroom, then hide the material in the corner thus leaving the rest of the crate
comfortable, dry and poo-free. If this becomes a problem, remove all the bedding. (You gotta admire their cleverness
though!) Another thing to consider is how the puppy was kept prior to obtaining him. Puppies from pet stores,
shelters and irresponsible breeders are often required to “go” in their crates or kennel runs. This will result in a puppy
that is more difficult to housetrain because it has become accustomed to “going” in its crate. Lastly, there are some
puppies that are just dirty. They do not have the strong instinct to keep the bed clean. These pups will also take
longer to housetrain, but will still successfully be trained using these methods. Unless there is a medical or mental
defect in the puppy – this method will work.
What to do about that first night puppy crying
Puppies first taken from their littermates almost always kick up a fuss just about the time everyone else wants some
sleep. Expect this. I have heard lots of ideas from hot water bottles and wind-up clocks to sleeping with the puppy in
your bed. I have tried a lot of things, but this is what I do that works best for me: I put the puppy’s crate immediately
next to my bed. If the puppy starts to fuss, I talk softly to the pup and put my fingers through the door or slots in the
side. Usually the puppy nibbles on my fingers for a moment and drifts back off to sleep. If it carries on for a bit more,
that is my cue to get my behind out of bed and take that puppy outside. Yes, it is inconvenient (and cold and late and
you’re tired and any other excuses you come up with) but this is the deal you made when you got a puppy. Be
responsible, get up and do it. I have never had a puppy fuss during the night for more than a day or two.
Step #2 Put your puppy on a schedule
It is vital that you put the pup on a regular schedule of potty times, feeding times, play times and sleep times. Dogs
are tremendous creatures of habit and if you can establish a predictable schedule for your puppy, he will be far
happier and more emotionally balanced (as an added bonus, you will have your puppy sleeping through the night very
quickly). Much of the separation anxiety I see as a trainer is due to poor scheduling – the dog has not learned to trust
that the owner will be back leading to fear, vocalizations and destructiveness. Start your relationship off on a good
foot – help your puppy trust that you will always be there to take care of its needs.
The schedule will be inconvenient for a while. That is another responsibility you assume when you get a puppy.
Young puppies of 8 -10 weeks do not have the same bladder and bowel control that an adult dog does and you will
have to allow for more frequent bathroom breaks until the puppy develops sufficient control. Young puppies should
also be fed more frequently than an adult dog. Developing an appropriate schedule will help ensure that your puppy
will come to expect things to happen in a certain way at a certain time which establishes trust. (As an aside, I
recommend that you be very wary of people who are willing to sell you a puppy younger than 7-8 weeks of age.
Although puppies may finish weaning and are eating solid foods by 5-6 weeks old are still developing socially and are
learning self-control from their mother and littermates. Bringing a puppy into your family younger than 8 weeks may
result in future behavioral issues – such as fear biting, dominance, lack of self control, destructiveness, separation
anxiety, and others - that are difficult to correct. No reputable breeder would allow puppies to leave their care at that
age, so be wary of the person willing to sell you the puppy.)
Our goal is to prevent accidents from occurring by taking the puppy out when it has to “go”. A schedule will help you
to predict when the puppy will have to “go” and make this all much simpler. A good schedule for a typical, healthy 8
week old puppy with working owners might look something like this:
7:00 am Breakfast in crate (pick up after 15 minutes – no free feeding!)
7:10 am Outside – potty
7:15 am Playtime!
7:30 am Outside – potty
7:45 am Crate (nap) while you get ready for work, school, etc.
8:30 am Outside – potty, last chance before you go to work
12:00 pm Outside – potty, young puppies will need a chance to go during the day so arrange it through a sitter or
come home during your lunch break. This will only be for a couple of weeks, maximum. See if you can schedule long
lunches for a couple of weeks as vacation time if necessary.
12:15 pm Crate while you return to work
4:00 pm Mid-afternoon meal in crate (pick up after 15 minutes)
4:15 pm Outside – potty
4:30 pm Playtime!
4:45 pm Outside – potty
5:00 pm Playtime!
5:30 pm Crate (nap) while you make dinner, etc.
7:00 pm Outside – potty
7:15 pm Playtime!
7:30 pm Outside – potty
7:35 pm Playtime!
8:00 pm Crate (nap) while you put kids to bed, watch TV in peace, etc.
10:15 pm Evening meal in crate (pick up after 15 minutes – no free feeding!)
10:30 pm Outside – potty
10:45 pm Crate for the night
If you are fortunate enough to be home all day, you may extend the playtime periods into the daytime hours when, in
the scenario above, our owners would be at work.
Here are the vital pieces that make this program work:
This method does involve some effort on your part.
I admit this is a lot of work and sometimes not easy to pull off. I know – I’ve done it many more times than you will ever
think of doing it! Here are the upsides:
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Why don’t you like paper training?
A: Ugh! I don’t just dislike paper training – I hate paper training! First, I really hate the smell and the mess. Second,
my housetraining procedures are designed to prevent the dog from ever “going” in the house and paper training
encourages puppies to “go” in the house. I want to instill in my dogs a habit that they should only “go” outdoors. I want
them to be reliable for any indoor venue - whether that be the vet’s office, a store or to an indoor dog show. If I begin
teaching the puppy that it is sometimes okay to “go” indoors, it just becomes that much harder to housetrain them. A
dog who has been “paper trained” will often choose to “go” on magazines, newspapers, blankets, rugs or other items
lying on the floor thinking they are doing what they have been instructed to do. I just think it is a horrible way to
housetrain a dog – it is confusing and counter-productive. Take a couple weeks off work, if necessary, and housetrain
your puppy or dog correctly rather than try to take shortcuts with paper training. Additionally, beware the day care
that does not discourage your dog from “going” indoors. It does you no good to exercise your dog while you are at
work if you are sabotaging your housetraining efforts.
Q: What about apartment dwellers? It isn’t easy to get up and take the puppy out in the middle of the night.
A: I have lived this situation as well. Here, you have two options. Just get up and take that puppy out is the first one
(and the one I have used most often). Another option that I have used successfully is a puppy litter box on a balcony.
It is VITAL that the potty spot be outside to preserve the belief in your dog that it should “go” outdoors and never in
the house. I have constructed a litter box by using the bottom of an airline crate (choose an appropriate size for your
puppy) and filling the bottom with clumping cat litter or sections of sod (purchased at your local home supply center or
nursery). Sod will have to be routinely replaced and lightly watered. Cat litter will also need to be replaced as
needed. I do know of many high-rise, small dogs who almost always have this option available to them even as
adults. If you do set up a balcony litter box, be sure that you ensure that your puppy can not slip through any
openings and fall off the balcony! Use fencing, cement blocks or other materials to block any access to dangerous
openings. If you have a sliding glass door to the balcony, you may also install a doggie door panel to give your dog
continuous access to its outdoor accommodations.
Q: How long does this method take?
A: That really does depend on how diligent you are and quickly your dog learns. In most cases puppies trained with
this method develop adequate bladder and bowel control to be fairly reliable within a matter of a few weeks. Adult
dogs, depending on whether they have been allowed to “go” in the house in the past, were previously paper trained or
other contributing factors can usually be trained in just a couple of weeks. Again, your diligence and adherence to the
program is the key. The more mistakes you have made, the longer the method will take.
Q: Will my dog have to live in a crate forever?
A: No. Not unless you fail to completely work the housetraining program and allow bad habits to develop. If you begin
training an 8 week old puppy, I would use the crate throughout his adolescence just to prevent any destructive
behaviors that will, no doubt, develop as he matures. Once your puppy is about 12-24 months (depending on breed
and individual maturity level) your dog will likely become a reliable, trustworthy member of the family. Too often
freedoms are granted too early and result in the development of bad habits.
Q: I have an adult dog. Is it too late to housetrain him?
A: Absolutely not. The difference in training a puppy and an adult comes in the scheduling. Adults do have bladder
and bowel control and are usually fed only once or twice a day. They are also not as reactive to requiring a potty
break within minutes of starting active play. Adult dogs will not require that you come home at lunchtime to let them
out – they are capable of holding it for a full 8 hours.
Q: I am really struggling with housetraining my small breed dog. Can you help?
A: Small breeds always seem to have more housetraining issues. Often it is because they are coddled a bit more than
larger breed dogs. Also, small breeds are most often the breeds that are paper trained – and you know what I think of
paper training! It really doesn’t work. Go back and work my housetraining program with diligence. It works – even for
small dogs. It may take you longer because you will be breaking bad habits. Those who work this housetraining
program from the beginning prevent bad habits from developing.
Q: I like to let my puppy/dog eat anytime they like. Why do you say we should pick up the food?
A: Simple. What goes “in” on a schedule comes “out” on a schedule. Also free-feeding gives you no means of
regulating your dogs’ intake. They may eat too much and become obese (as most pet dogs will do). Also it does not
give you the ability to see if your dog is not eating as well today – perhaps an early sign of illness. My primary reason
for feeding my own dogs on a schedule is so that I may control their weight. But the additional benefits are very
worthwhile!
the cleanup, the scolding, the loss of that “lovin’ feeling” between you and your puppy. Adult dogs can be trained
using these exact methods, but since this is usually a puppy issue, I will make reference to puppies throughout the
guide. All too often, people give up and the puppy becomes an outside dog because the owners believe it is
untrainable. The truth is that nearly all normal, healthy puppies and dogs can be successfully housetrained using the
correct methods.
What if I could give you a way to housetrain your puppy quickly and reliably without:
• Frustration or anger
• Your dog becoming afraid of you
• Nasty newspapers
• Rubbing noses in anything
• Lots of “accidents”
• Trial and error (mostly error)
Would you want to give it a try?
I have housetrained dozens of dogs and puppies using the methods I am about to share with you. They are, by far,
the most humane methods available. Personally, I would never attempt to housetrain a dog in another manner. This
method is so successful and so simple. While the method I will share with you is easy, it requires diligence on your
part to be successful, especially in the beginning. I have trained 8 week old puppies with this method in a matter of
days - and you can too. Are you still with me? Good! Then let’s get on with the method!
In most phases of my dog training, I employ natural processes that allow the dog to assume responsibility for its
behavior. Dogs – even very young puppies – are driven to keep the area where they sleep clean and dry. This
instinct, in addition to the denning instinct of dogs, makes using the crate as a housetraining tool absolutely ideal.
If you think the crate is “mean”, let’s consider the alternatives. Is smacking the puppy for having an accident mean? I
think so. Is paper training your puppy, then being angry because it pees on the magazines, rugs or clothing left on the
floor mean? I think so. How about “rubbing their nose in it”? Is that mean? Not only is it mean, it serves no purpose
other than to make the puppy afraid of you – especially to be afraid of you when it has to relieve itself. This is one
reason dogs will hide to do their business – they believe you are scolding them for going so they hide from you so that
you cannot see them go. You’ll be finding surprises behind the sofa for years! So, before you get emotional about
putting your puppy into a crate, let me assure you that a crate is only mean if you use it improperly. The crate is not a
punishment tool, nor is it meant to confine your pet for long periods of time. Used fairly, most dogs acclimate to crates
and find them a haven – a comfortable place that is all their own.
Step #1 Crate train your puppy
First, choose a crate that is an appropriate size for your puppy. Do not be tempted to buy a larger crate that will fit
your full-grown puppy. Buy a crate that is just large enough for your puppy to stand comfortably and turn around.
Anything larger and you are setting yourself up for failure. Yes – you may have to buy a larger crate that will fit the
puppy’s full-sized growth. This is part of owning a puppy and the small, puppy-sized crates are not that expensive so
just do it. (There are some crates on the market that have an internal wire mesh barrier that makes the crate smaller
during housetraining which can be removed when the dog is an adult – look into this if you want only to buy one crate.)
Trying to cheat this step is something many people attempt – you will only make training more difficult for yourself by
allowing bad habits to develop if you do not follow the program as outlined.
The next snag most people hit is when the puppy protests that it has been put in the crate. Most puppies will object
once inside their crates – expect it. Puppies miss the comfort of their littermates and adult dogs have been allowed
unlimited freedom – both will balk at the removal of all freedom. The puppy must now learn that it is not in control of
the household and it does not get freedom within the house until it earns that freedom. It is important that you help the
puppy develop a positive relationship with the crate. Do not just throw them inside and walk away. I toss treats just
inside the crate door encouraging the puppy to explore this new object. Be patient! Let me repeat – be patient!!
There is not a race to see how quickly you can shut that door. Give the pup a chance to look it over for himself. As
you are making progress, toss treats further inside the crate. Later, you can shut the door briefly then immediately
open it again. Then you can shut the door, leave the room and immediately return and let the pup out. However, do
not EVER open the door while your puppy is barking, whining or otherwise carrying on. The pup must realize that
being quiet and calm is the way to get what it wants. Overall, this process takes anywhere from several minutes to
many hours depending on the dog. Don’t shortcut this step either.
The items you should include inside your puppy’s crate include a soft towel, a water dish (preferably one that attaches
to the door of the crate to prevent spills) and a safe toy (such as a Nylabone or Kong). You will also be feeding the
puppy in the crate, so make sure you have a food dish that will fit into the crate as well.
What about crate bathroom accidents? Before you get frustrated or angry, consider that the puppy may have a stress-
related or medical reason for the accident. Puppies that pee small amounts frequently may have a urinary tract
infection and will need a trip to the vet for antibiotics. Additionally, some congenital problems show themselves as the
pup begins to mature which could include other medical reasons for frequent urination. Poop accidents are often a
result of stress, changes in diet and overfeeding. Sometimes new treats can cause a tummy upset which results in
diarrhea. These things are not within your puppy’s control – no scolding the puppy! Once all of those items have
been ruled out, if a puppy is going in the crate then the crate is likely too large. Another possibility is that the puppy is
willing to use the bedding as a bathroom, then hide the material in the corner thus leaving the rest of the crate
comfortable, dry and poo-free. If this becomes a problem, remove all the bedding. (You gotta admire their cleverness
though!) Another thing to consider is how the puppy was kept prior to obtaining him. Puppies from pet stores,
shelters and irresponsible breeders are often required to “go” in their crates or kennel runs. This will result in a puppy
that is more difficult to housetrain because it has become accustomed to “going” in its crate. Lastly, there are some
puppies that are just dirty. They do not have the strong instinct to keep the bed clean. These pups will also take
longer to housetrain, but will still successfully be trained using these methods. Unless there is a medical or mental
defect in the puppy – this method will work.
What to do about that first night puppy crying
Puppies first taken from their littermates almost always kick up a fuss just about the time everyone else wants some
sleep. Expect this. I have heard lots of ideas from hot water bottles and wind-up clocks to sleeping with the puppy in
your bed. I have tried a lot of things, but this is what I do that works best for me: I put the puppy’s crate immediately
next to my bed. If the puppy starts to fuss, I talk softly to the pup and put my fingers through the door or slots in the
side. Usually the puppy nibbles on my fingers for a moment and drifts back off to sleep. If it carries on for a bit more,
that is my cue to get my behind out of bed and take that puppy outside. Yes, it is inconvenient (and cold and late and
you’re tired and any other excuses you come up with) but this is the deal you made when you got a puppy. Be
responsible, get up and do it. I have never had a puppy fuss during the night for more than a day or two.
Step #2 Put your puppy on a schedule
It is vital that you put the pup on a regular schedule of potty times, feeding times, play times and sleep times. Dogs
are tremendous creatures of habit and if you can establish a predictable schedule for your puppy, he will be far
happier and more emotionally balanced (as an added bonus, you will have your puppy sleeping through the night very
quickly). Much of the separation anxiety I see as a trainer is due to poor scheduling – the dog has not learned to trust
that the owner will be back leading to fear, vocalizations and destructiveness. Start your relationship off on a good
foot – help your puppy trust that you will always be there to take care of its needs.
The schedule will be inconvenient for a while. That is another responsibility you assume when you get a puppy.
Young puppies of 8 -10 weeks do not have the same bladder and bowel control that an adult dog does and you will
have to allow for more frequent bathroom breaks until the puppy develops sufficient control. Young puppies should
also be fed more frequently than an adult dog. Developing an appropriate schedule will help ensure that your puppy
will come to expect things to happen in a certain way at a certain time which establishes trust. (As an aside, I
recommend that you be very wary of people who are willing to sell you a puppy younger than 7-8 weeks of age.
Although puppies may finish weaning and are eating solid foods by 5-6 weeks old are still developing socially and are
learning self-control from their mother and littermates. Bringing a puppy into your family younger than 8 weeks may
result in future behavioral issues – such as fear biting, dominance, lack of self control, destructiveness, separation
anxiety, and others - that are difficult to correct. No reputable breeder would allow puppies to leave their care at that
age, so be wary of the person willing to sell you the puppy.)
Our goal is to prevent accidents from occurring by taking the puppy out when it has to “go”. A schedule will help you
to predict when the puppy will have to “go” and make this all much simpler. A good schedule for a typical, healthy 8
week old puppy with working owners might look something like this:
7:00 am Breakfast in crate (pick up after 15 minutes – no free feeding!)
7:10 am Outside – potty
7:15 am Playtime!
7:30 am Outside – potty
7:45 am Crate (nap) while you get ready for work, school, etc.
8:30 am Outside – potty, last chance before you go to work
12:00 pm Outside – potty, young puppies will need a chance to go during the day so arrange it through a sitter or
come home during your lunch break. This will only be for a couple of weeks, maximum. See if you can schedule long
lunches for a couple of weeks as vacation time if necessary.
12:15 pm Crate while you return to work
4:00 pm Mid-afternoon meal in crate (pick up after 15 minutes)
4:15 pm Outside – potty
4:30 pm Playtime!
4:45 pm Outside – potty
5:00 pm Playtime!
5:30 pm Crate (nap) while you make dinner, etc.
7:00 pm Outside – potty
7:15 pm Playtime!
7:30 pm Outside – potty
7:35 pm Playtime!
8:00 pm Crate (nap) while you put kids to bed, watch TV in peace, etc.
10:15 pm Evening meal in crate (pick up after 15 minutes – no free feeding!)
10:30 pm Outside – potty
10:45 pm Crate for the night
If you are fortunate enough to be home all day, you may extend the playtime periods into the daytime hours when, in
the scenario above, our owners would be at work.
Here are the vital pieces that make this program work:
- Always pick up and carry the puppy outside when you remove it from the crate!! Otherwise, the puppy will squat
and pee almost immediately upon exiting – and now that you’ve been warned, that will be your fault if it
happens. No scolding the puppy! - Puppies “go” at predictable times!! There are certain times when a puppy will definitely have to “go”. Puppies
need to go when they first wake up, within 15-30 minutes after they eat, and frequently during periods of active
play. The most frequent time for accidents to occur is during playtime so watch the clock and give him another
chance to go about 15 minutes into playtime. Also watch for tell-tale circling and sniffing which precedes
elimination. Because puppies have to go almost immediately after eating, hopefully you can see the value of a
good schedule! What goes in on schedule comes out on schedule. Again, you have been warned and if you
do not take the puppy out – it is your fault. No scolding the puppy! - When taking the puppy outside for bathroom breaks, stay out there with it! Nope – you cannot just dump the
puppy outside and dash back indoors no matter how dark, cold or rainy it is (while you wait, thank your lucky
stars that you don’t live in a snowy climate and if you do live where it gets really cold – my sympathies, but do it
anyway). You will stand there – as many have before you – and wait for potty to happen. While it is happening,
you will softly say “good puppy”. When I observe that potty is just about to happen, I also add a phrase that will
be used throughout the puppy’s life that will come to mean “go potty, right now!”. The phrase I use is “hurry up”
although you can use any phrase that suits you. Others I have heard include “go potty”, “make peepee” and
“take a break”. I use “hurry up” because it is less embarrassing in public and I tend to travel with my dogs a lot.
Adding this command to your puppy’s repertoire will not only impress your friends, but comes in mighty handy
when you are late for work and the dog needs to go out! - If the puppy has an accident, it is probably your fault. But you gathered that already, didn’t you? So, no
scolding the puppy! You should, however, assess what happened (or didn’t happen) and make adjustments
accordingly to prevent future accidents.
This method does involve some effort on your part.
I admit this is a lot of work and sometimes not easy to pull off. I know – I’ve done it many more times than you will ever
think of doing it! Here are the upsides:
- It does not take long. You will not be doing this for a lifetime. If you do it right, you will do it for 3 weeks or less.
You will always have to maintain some sort of schedule and may have to continue to use the crate during
periods when you cannot supervise your puppy, but the pattern can be established and your puppy can “know”
that it is supposed to go outside in three weeks or less. - It really works. I have used these methods to train many dogs – young and old, big and small. They really work
and the few weeks you spend training now pays off with 12-15 years of a very well housetrained dog. - Your house will not smell like “dog”. You know the smell. I can always tell if I am walking into a house with a
poorly housetrained dog. It is unmistakable. Your house will not smell like ammonia-soaked, wet newspapers
either. - You preserve and enhance the relationship between you and your puppy. Your puppy learns to trust that you
will be there for his needs. He will be less likely to develop separation anxiety problems and dirty household
habits. Additionally, since there is no scolding, you have not taught your puppy to fear you – especially when it
comes to potty time. - Your carpet is saved! I know people who wait to clean their carpets until after their puppy grows up a little. Be
fearless! Clean those carpets anytime you like!
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Why don’t you like paper training?
A: Ugh! I don’t just dislike paper training – I hate paper training! First, I really hate the smell and the mess. Second,
my housetraining procedures are designed to prevent the dog from ever “going” in the house and paper training
encourages puppies to “go” in the house. I want to instill in my dogs a habit that they should only “go” outdoors. I want
them to be reliable for any indoor venue - whether that be the vet’s office, a store or to an indoor dog show. If I begin
teaching the puppy that it is sometimes okay to “go” indoors, it just becomes that much harder to housetrain them. A
dog who has been “paper trained” will often choose to “go” on magazines, newspapers, blankets, rugs or other items
lying on the floor thinking they are doing what they have been instructed to do. I just think it is a horrible way to
housetrain a dog – it is confusing and counter-productive. Take a couple weeks off work, if necessary, and housetrain
your puppy or dog correctly rather than try to take shortcuts with paper training. Additionally, beware the day care
that does not discourage your dog from “going” indoors. It does you no good to exercise your dog while you are at
work if you are sabotaging your housetraining efforts.
Q: What about apartment dwellers? It isn’t easy to get up and take the puppy out in the middle of the night.
A: I have lived this situation as well. Here, you have two options. Just get up and take that puppy out is the first one
(and the one I have used most often). Another option that I have used successfully is a puppy litter box on a balcony.
It is VITAL that the potty spot be outside to preserve the belief in your dog that it should “go” outdoors and never in
the house. I have constructed a litter box by using the bottom of an airline crate (choose an appropriate size for your
puppy) and filling the bottom with clumping cat litter or sections of sod (purchased at your local home supply center or
nursery). Sod will have to be routinely replaced and lightly watered. Cat litter will also need to be replaced as
needed. I do know of many high-rise, small dogs who almost always have this option available to them even as
adults. If you do set up a balcony litter box, be sure that you ensure that your puppy can not slip through any
openings and fall off the balcony! Use fencing, cement blocks or other materials to block any access to dangerous
openings. If you have a sliding glass door to the balcony, you may also install a doggie door panel to give your dog
continuous access to its outdoor accommodations.
Q: How long does this method take?
A: That really does depend on how diligent you are and quickly your dog learns. In most cases puppies trained with
this method develop adequate bladder and bowel control to be fairly reliable within a matter of a few weeks. Adult
dogs, depending on whether they have been allowed to “go” in the house in the past, were previously paper trained or
other contributing factors can usually be trained in just a couple of weeks. Again, your diligence and adherence to the
program is the key. The more mistakes you have made, the longer the method will take.
Q: Will my dog have to live in a crate forever?
A: No. Not unless you fail to completely work the housetraining program and allow bad habits to develop. If you begin
training an 8 week old puppy, I would use the crate throughout his adolescence just to prevent any destructive
behaviors that will, no doubt, develop as he matures. Once your puppy is about 12-24 months (depending on breed
and individual maturity level) your dog will likely become a reliable, trustworthy member of the family. Too often
freedoms are granted too early and result in the development of bad habits.
Q: I have an adult dog. Is it too late to housetrain him?
A: Absolutely not. The difference in training a puppy and an adult comes in the scheduling. Adults do have bladder
and bowel control and are usually fed only once or twice a day. They are also not as reactive to requiring a potty
break within minutes of starting active play. Adult dogs will not require that you come home at lunchtime to let them
out – they are capable of holding it for a full 8 hours.
Q: I am really struggling with housetraining my small breed dog. Can you help?
A: Small breeds always seem to have more housetraining issues. Often it is because they are coddled a bit more than
larger breed dogs. Also, small breeds are most often the breeds that are paper trained – and you know what I think of
paper training! It really doesn’t work. Go back and work my housetraining program with diligence. It works – even for
small dogs. It may take you longer because you will be breaking bad habits. Those who work this housetraining
program from the beginning prevent bad habits from developing.
Q: I like to let my puppy/dog eat anytime they like. Why do you say we should pick up the food?
A: Simple. What goes “in” on a schedule comes “out” on a schedule. Also free-feeding gives you no means of
regulating your dogs’ intake. They may eat too much and become obese (as most pet dogs will do). Also it does not
give you the ability to see if your dog is not eating as well today – perhaps an early sign of illness. My primary reason
for feeding my own dogs on a schedule is so that I may control their weight. But the additional benefits are very
worthwhile!
| Happy Housetraining! No Accidents, No Yelling, No Stress, No Kidding! by Kim Toepfer |
 |  |  |  |
